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serõi: Küsimus suurele ringile: kui suured peaksid olema 320, 325 ja 328 masside erinevused, et need elukad enam-vähem võrdselt liiguksid?

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serõi: Küsimus suurele ringile: kui suured peaksid olema 320, 325 ja 328 masside erinevused, et need elukad enam-vähem võrdselt liiguksid?

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rolantsik:Need kaaluvahed peaksid suht suured olema.USA kaaludega järgi on kindlalt 328 paremas seisus.Ise olen omanud kunagi mõlemat autot ja 328 on igast poosist kiirem.Vahe oli tunda nii,et 328 oli isegi kolmekesi autos kiirem 325-st.

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OK, I'll bite. I'm going to be building several of these cars in the coming months, I've been in deep discussions with my clients about it and have a plan of attack.

Let's say you're me but with a Mandrel bender. Let's say you have the ability to build the car yourself, and let's say you are a kick-ass welder.

So let's take the car. You buy a beater 325is for $2,500. Let's say that you get SUPER lucky and it has a mint black sport interior (yeah, right). So you get $400 for the seats, $300 for the door panels and $200-300 for the other stuff. You dump the stock wheels for $200. That's $1300 in the car.

Not bad, we might pull this off!

OK, so this 220k mile 13 year old car now needs to be completely ripped apart and gone through before you go dragging it all over the country to push it to its' limits. There is, in my opinion, a much higer mechanical standard one must hold a race car to. As we very unfortunately have seen from this weekend's event at Road Atlanta, these cars, even Spec cars, are going to go VERY fast under VERY demanding conditions. There can simply be no room for error or corner-cutting when building one. You can get hurt or killed out there if you have the BEST car on the grid, period. What's overkill for my customer that uses his 328i to drive to work is not at all overkill for my clients who are going to race with their cars.

In short, you have to go nuts, not only for the safety of yourself but for the safety of the other drivers.

Here's how I build these and how you should if you're going to race an old car.

1) Strip out the interior. Spend, say, $400 on materials for the cage and about $100 on primer to spray up the interior of the car.

$1800

2) Buy the spec suspension components. Figure $1500 for that.

$3300

3) Go through the car mechanically. Sorry, but I'm not letting a single race car with my name on it onto the track unless it's had the following replaced/rebuilt:

Every single fuel line (Priced BMW fuel line lately? it's not cheap)
Every single suspension component that's prone to any kind of wear. Even the ones that are NOT prone to wear are getting checked super carefully. Every ball joint, every bushing, it's all getting replaced. A control arm that shows no play certainly has been stressed from road use, chuck it, don't take chances. Sure, $200-300 here and there do add up, but it's a lot cheaper than a DNF or a wreck or god forbid, hurting yourself or someone else.

So what's that going to cost in parts? Easily $1200.

$4500

The car now needs a new clutch, guibo, cener bearing. You also have to check the driveshaft carefully for play, if it's original, budget $300-400 to rebuild it.

$5200

Now we have to assume that the engine, diff and trans are basically solid. You are probably going to need to, at the very least, replace the entire cooling system with stock components, replace every single hose under the hood and all vacuum lines. That's easily $500. Now, replacing that clutch master and slave are also a very smart idea, figure $200 for that. All brake lines get replaced, that's $150 for braided lines and a braided clutch line. That crusty old clutch hard line and brake lines also should be changed, figure conservatively, $150 for those.

Oh yes! The engine may very easily need a new VANOS unit, and some new gaskets, and we need a shifter, and we want to change the steering flexible coupling, and the PS lines and resivoir/filter, and we need those super duper polyurethane bushings everywhere, and we want to run a fan delete and electric fan and and and and and.......

You think you can pull this off for $5000? I wish you could, I'd love to see it, but I don't see it being possible without a lot of corners being cut.

For example, how much do you think completely new suspension hardware is going to cost? I'm sorry, but I am simply NOT going to trust old hardware opn a race car, that alone can be a couple hundred. Sure, some of the M8 bolts are cheap, but those subframe mounting bolts aren't that cheap and there's 4 of them and 4 studs and washers and and and and.....

Again, not trying to rip into you, but I think it's very important to have a very clear picture of what it takes to build a SAFE and RELIABLE race car that's also competitive.

How much would it suck if some silly water hose lets loose on you during qualifying at the beginning of the weekend? or if a rusty old brake line under the car starts to leak?

You need to remember that the NEWEST car available for this series is going to be 8 years old at the start of the series, the oldest cars will be approaching 16 years of age.

Please plan accordingly.

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I plan on spending between 10k-15k not including the car and doing ALL the work myself in house. I plan to replace every suspension arm with the exception of the rear trailing arms. All four wheel bearings, every suspension bushings, rebuilding the rear sub frame with new sub frame bushings, re-enforcing both sub frames, sway bar brackets and shock towers, diff bushings, exhaust hangers, engine and trans mounts, steering rack, tie rods, power steering pump, rebuilding the differential, etc, etc.

I'm not doing this to build a winning car, but that will most likely end up being the result. I am doing all this to build a SAFE and RELIABLE car. We are talking about racing cars that most likely have 100k+ street miles on them if we are picking them up for $2000. They will need just about everything replaced to make them race reliable and safe for not just the driver, but everyone else you are sharing the track with.

I also plan to not skimp on any of the safety gear, not after having been in a good crash myself at WGI and just watching another two of our cars bite the bullet at WGI this past weekend.

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Jörm:...
Kompakt tehtigi tegelt võidusõiduks, sest kupee ja sedaan olid liiga rasked. lisaks on ta veits parema aerodünaamikaga, drag on väiksem ja lift kah.......

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rolantsik:

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xjan:

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Jörm:...
Kompakt tehtigi tegelt võidusõiduks, sest kupee ja sedaan olid liiga rasked. lisaks on ta veits parema aerodünaamikaga, drag on väiksem ja lift kah.......

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Nüüd on siis universaalil hoopis aerodünaamiline eelis? Ja ratsionaalne see põhjendus veel ei ole. Kui tuleb ratsionaalne põhjendus siis on samas seda võimalik ka arvesse võtta, et võrdsus tagatud oleks.

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See on suht tõestatud põhjus,minu arust.

Samas ei oska ma ka leida Compacti eeliseid teiste mudelite ees(sedaan,kupee)

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Lembit:Kui võtta ka massipiiranguks see Ameeriklaste seeriast pärit 1250 kg, siis tähendab see seda, et reaalselt saab ka sedaanile lisada ca 100kg ballasti.

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peep: Teemaväliselt:

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Lembit:Kui võtta ka massipiiranguks see Ameeriklaste seeriast pärit 1250 kg, siis tähendab see seda, et reaalselt saab ka sedaanile lisada ca 100kg ballasti.

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Tavaline 325 sedaan kaalub sõidukorras ca. 1450 kg ja see ameeriklaste kaalupiirang oli võistluskaalule ehk arvestades keskmiseks juhi kaaluks koos varustusega 90 kg tuleb vahe 290 kg. Niipalju kui ma foorumitest lugesin, tähendab see pärsi tõsist tööd, et auto õigesse kaalu saada ehk 100 kg. ballast pole eriti reaalne.

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